+1 Katana Evolution Pets Tier List

Pets in +1 Katana Evolution are an RNG layer on top of katanas, not a second campaign. You open eggs, the hatch UI rolls a rarity, and sometimes the thing that pops out is weaker than the pet you already have. This list ranks pets by whether they help you meet a stage’s recommended damage, and it treats odds as odds: Common, Uncommon, and Rare share about 40 percent of hatches, Epic about 50 percent, Legendary about 10 percent, and Secret about 0.20 percent.

Those percentages are what the egg screen and footage support. They are not a promise that your next three eggs will land Epic. If a hatch is worse than your current pet, keep the old one. Equip the roll only when the HUD damage goes up or the pet clearly matches the next gate. For the rest of the loop — blades, bars, rebirth — stay on the tier list hub and how to evolve.

Reading the hatch UI

The hatch UI is a rarity roll, not a loot piñata with a pity timer we can publish. Footage of the screen — the same layout captured on the wiki hatch screenshot — shows an egg, a rarity color, and a pet model. You will see a ninja-head Common, a green cube Uncommon, a lightning Epic, and — rarely — a pink horned Secret on the secret-pet screenshot. Use those descriptions until Gatto vs Denis prints proper catalog names. We will not invent a bestiary to fill empty rows.

What the UI does not do:

• It does not replace getting started. A new account still needs wooden at 1 Win and Stage 2’s ~300 damage more than it needs a Secret chase.
• It does not refund a bad roll. If the new pet is weaker, leave it in the inventory and keep swinging.
• It does not care about your outfit. Completing the purple evolution bar is a separate spend, covered in how to evolve and the evolution list.

If you are staring at the hatch screen while a win pad is free, you are ranking pets above Wins. Reverse that. Bank the Win, then roll.

S tier — Secret, and any hatch that beats your current pet at a real gate

• Pink horned Secret (~0.20 percent). S if you actually hatch it and it raises damage. It is not S as a plan. Building a session around 0.20 percent is how you skip Stage 3’s ~5,000 gate for an afternoon. If it drops, equip it and go back to pads. If it does not, nothing on this list failed.
• Any pet — even Common — that is stronger than what you have and lets you hold the current recommended damage. A ninja-head that pushes you over Stage 2’s ~300 is S for that hour. Rarity is not the rank. The gate is the rank.

A tier — Legendary and useful Epics

• Legendary (~10 percent). A as a class because it shows up often enough to plan around without pretending it is free. Equip it when it beats your current pet. Skip it when it does not. Ten percent is not a pity.
• Lightning Epic (~50 percent of hatches are Epic). Epic is the most common high roll, which is why footage keeps showing the lightning model. A is the default when the lightning pet outdamages your ninja-head or cube. B if you already hold a stronger Legendary and the lightning roll is a sidegrade.

Epic being common is the trap. Players treat Epic as a jackpot because the model is loud. The egg math says you should see it often. Rank the number on the HUD, not the spark.

B tier — Uncommon cubes and fine Commons

• Green cube Uncommon. Solid early companion. B because it is a placeholder you should be willing to replace. Keep it while bamboo and wooden are still the story. Replace it the first time a roll is actually stronger.
• Ninja-head Common. Correct first pet. B, not C, because a working Common is better than an empty slot. C only if you refuse to replace it after better rarity is sitting in the inventory.

Common, Uncommon, and Rare together are about 40 percent of the egg. That bundle is your filler. Filler is useful on day one. Filler is a mistake if you still showcase it on Stage 5’s 30,444 recommended damage.

C tier — worse-than-current rolls and Secret hunting as a strategy

• A new hatch that deals less than the pet you already equipped. The rarity can be higher. The rank is still C until the damage is higher.
• Spending Wins, Robux, or a whole session on Secret odds while Stage 2 is still the wall. 0.20 percent is not a build.
• Equipping a pet because it matches a later evolution look. Cosmetics are not damage. The early game build would rather you redeem codes and buy wooden.

Hatch order that does not waste a run

1. Join the group, redeem codes, get 1 Win, buy wooden. Pets after that, not before, unless a free egg is already in the HUD.
2. Roll. Compare the new pet to the equipped one. If it is worse, keep the old one. This is the whole secret of the list.
3. If the new pet is better, equip it and immediately go test a pad. Stage 2 ~300, Stage 3 ~5,000, Stage 5 30,444. If the pad still rejects you, the pet was not the missing piece — the katana or a rebirth was.
4. Do not pause how to evolve to reopen eggs. Cash a ready purple bar first.
5. After a rebirth you keep katanas; pets still need a damage check. Re-equip only what still wins the comparison.

There is no public Trello of pet stats and no numbered patch that lists every model. What we have is the hatch UI, group posts, and footage of those four silhouettes. Rank the roll you have. Do not rank the pink horned Secret you have not seen. If a future egg adds a new silhouette, it gets a descriptive row on this page the same way — by gate match, not by how rare the color looks in a thumbnail.